Installed a 2″ or 3″ lift kit but your truck doesn’t sit quite right? You’re not alone. Lift height can vary based on weight, parts used, and how you measure it. Here’s why — and how to fix it.

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1. Your Truck’s Weight Affects Lift Height

Most lift kits are designed for stock vehicles.
If you have a steel bumper, winch, skid plates, a camper shell, or even tools in the bed — all that added weight compresses your suspension more than the manufacturer assumed.

Example: A 3” lift kit might only give you 2.25” if you have a front bumper + winch combo.

Solution:
Upgrade to a stiffer coil spring (higher spring rate), or add preload if you’re running adjustable coilovers.

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2. Coil Springs vs Spacer Lifts – They React Differently

Type	Predictability	Performance	Affected by Weight?
Spacer Lift	High	Low	No
Coil Spring Lift	Moderate	High	Yes

Spacer kits always add exactly what they say.
Coil spring kits depend on the spring rate and how much your truck weighs.

Solution:
Use spacers if predictability is more important than performance — but coilovers offer more comfort and adjustability.

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3. New Suspension Settles Over Time

Most coil springs will “settle” by 0.5″ to 1″ over the first few hundred miles. That’s normal.

Shocks and coilovers with fresh springs feel tall out of the box, but may dip slightly as they break in.

Solution:
Recheck your measurements after ~500 miles before making any adjustments.

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4. Front vs Rear Lift Isn’t Always Balanced

• Some kits are front only — especially for leveling.
• Some rear lifts use taller blocks, making the rear sit higher than expected.
• Suspension rake is often intentional for towing and load handling.

Solution:
If rear sits too high, swap to smaller blocks or remove add-a-leaf.
If front sits too low, adjust preload or consider a front spacer.

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5. Marketing Language Can Be Misleading

Some products list “up to 2.5 inches” of lift — but in reality, you may only see 2.0″ due to:

• Model trims (e.g., TRD Pro vs SR5 have different baseline suspension)
• Curb weight differences
• Optional add-ons

Always read the fine print and trim-specific notes before ordering.

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6. You Might Be Measuring It Wrong

Bad: Measuring from ground to fender — includes tire size
Good: Measuring from center of hub to bottom of fender

Diagram Suggestion:

• Side-by-side image:
  • Incorrect: Ground-to-fender
  • Correct: Hub-to-fender

Tip: Measure before and after install using the same method.

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7. How to Fix Lift Height That’s Off

Problem	Fix
Front sits too low	Add preload / upgrade front springs
Rear sits too high	Remove rear block or switch to smaller one
Whole truck sits too low	You may have a coilover or spring rate mismatch
Uneven side-to-side stance	Double-check spring orientation or isolator placement
Not what was advertised	Recheck trim-specific compatibility — contact us if unsure

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8. Still Not Happy? Let’s Dial It In

Even if your kit was installed right, small tweaks go a long way. You can:

• Add 0.5″ spacers up front
• Adjust preload if you have coilovers
• Change spring rate if you added heavy gear

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FAQ (for Schema and Featured Snippets)

How do I measure truck lift height correctly?

Measure from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom edge of the fender. Avoid measuring from the ground up, as tire size and pressure affect the reading.

Is it normal for a lift kit to settle?

Yes. Most coil spring-based kits will settle 0.5–1.0 inches after 500–1,000 miles of driving.

Why does my rear sit higher than the front after a lift?

This could be due to a front-only lift or a rear block being larger than needed. It may also be intentional to maintain rake for towing.

Can I stack spacers and coilovers for extra lift?

It’s not recommended. Stacking can affect suspension geometry and handling, and may void your warranty.

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Need Help?

If you installed a lift kit and your truck doesn’t sit right, we can help you figure it out. Contact our team or use our Lift Kit Compatibility Checker.